oondell



"(No Model.) 2 Shets-Sheet 1.

' J. GONDELL.

SHOE.

No, 380,552. Patented Apr. 3, 1 888.

N. PETERS. Phm-unm r her. Nanim D.(.

UNITED STATES PATENT @rrrcn.

JOHN OONDELL, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 380,552, dated April 3, 1888.

Application filed November 22, 1887. Serial No. 255.908. (No model.)

' To aZZ whom, it may concern: channeling of the face of the outer sole to re- Be it known that 1, JOHN CONDELL, a citiceive the thread is avoided and the wear and zen of the United States, residing at New appearance of the shoe are greatly improved. York, in the county of New York and State of Finally, I propose to utilize the grained sur- New York, have invented new and useful Imface of the outer sole to give strengthand long 5 provemcnts-in the Manufacture of Boots and wear to the stitching. I Shoes, of which the following is aspecification. To these ends my invention consists in the My invention relates to the manufacture of several novel features of construction and new boots and shoes, and the purpose thereof is to combinations of parts hereinafter fully set provide a shoe in which the weight of the forth, and definitelypointed out in the claims. 60 wearer shall be equally distributed, the natu- In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is ral form of the foot preserved, and the leather a diagram showing the form of the upper of the upper supported in its normal position, ready for the last, the dotted lines showing the whereby greater ease as well as superior wean old form heretofore used. Fig. 2 is a side ele- 1 ing qualities are secured, while the shape, apvation of a shoe constructed according to my'65 proximating closely to that of the natural foot, invention. Fig. 3 is a transverse section of when well formed is much more graceful. Fig. 2 on the line 3 8, the scale of drawing be- It is also my purpose to provide a construcing somewhat enlarged; Fig.4 is a side eletion whereby the outer sole is secured to the vation of a mans shoe constructed in accordinsole in such manner as to permit the former ance with my invention. Fig. 5 is a partial 70 to have close bearing upon the upper, forming longitudinal section of Fig. i. Fig. 6 is a bota tight joint between the parts, and thereby tom plan view of the heel. avoid the channel or space usually formed in In the said drawings, the refcrence numeral shoes above the edge of the outer sole, and in 1 denotes the upper, which I cut, as shown in which mud and water are extremely liable to full lines in Fig. l, the ankle portion Finelin- 75. lodge. It is a further advantage of this coning backward and the heel portion 1 being struction that I am able to use a narrower extended downward, so that the margin shall sole and to formthe edges thereof with abevel substantially coincide with the outline of the or flare from the bot-tom upward, while the I last. When thus formed, the upper can be foot portion or upper overhangs or projects lasted with great ease and made to conform to 80 beyond the sole, thereby throwing the splash the shape of the last without wrinkling or away from the foot. drawing out of shape.

It is a further purpose of my invention to The numerals 2and3designate,respectively, provide an improved form of upper, having the insole and the outer sole, the insole being such a shape that it may be lasted without the shaped bet-ween metallic forms which approxi- 8 5 severestretching and tension usuallyemployed mate the natural convexities of the human to draw the edges down upon the heel,whereby foot, thereby producing a margin, 4., which thelcat-her is wrinkled at the instep and ball of lies closely against the rounded edge of the the foot and more or less deformity of the fin foot and supports the leather in true and nat- 0 ished shoe always produced. ural position. The upper 1 is lasted upon the 0 It is my purpose also to provide a shoe in insole in any suitable manner, and the outer which the necessity of a steel shank to retain the sole being secured in place the three are united arch of theinstep shall be wholly avoided, the by a single continuous line of stitching, 5. leather being retained in proper form and po- Preparatory to stitching a crease or chan- 5 sition by the weight of the wearer, in conjuncno], 6, is formed in the edge of the outer sole, 5 tion with the novel construction by which the and preferably nearer to the inner than to the weight is utilized for this purpose. outer edge, the strength of material being My invention also contemplates animproved such as to permit two-thirds of the thickness method of connecting the outer sole, insole, of the outer sole to lie below the channel, and

and upper by a single stitching, whereby the therefore add this greatly-increased protection zoo to the seam. The stitching is then carried along this channel and through the insole, which may be creased, if desired.

It should be noted that I turn the grained surface 3 of the outer sole inward, so that it lies against the outer surface of the insole. I thus avail myself of the greatly superior strength, tenacity, and toughness of this surface to support the seam, and I am thereby enabled to attach the outer sole with great strength and permanence by stitching through one-third of its thickness only. I employ n0 metallic shank in this shoe, but so construct and apply the heel that it gives the proper support to the instep and preserves the arch thereof.

The construction being essentially the same in both ladies shoes and those worn by men. I will describe it in connection with Figs. 4 and 5.

The heel 7 is formed of leather or any suit able material, and is provided with a forward- ]y-projecting tongue, 8, which underlies that portion of the heel. Upon its tread 9 the surface is convex from front to rear, and the height of the heel is greatest at the forward point and is lowered slightly toward the rear. The weight of the wearer will tend to depress the rearward part oftheheehrocking it slightly upon the convex tread 9, and this movement will slightly raise the tongue 8 and arch the instep portion of the sole, as clearly indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 5. This feature of construction, moreover,pr0dnces a more agreeable action in walking, as the curve or convexity of the tread of the heel approximates the natural motion of the foot in walking, making less noise and producing less fatigue.

By my method of uniting the outer sole by channeling the edge thereof and laying the scam in said channel I am not only able to make a tight joint between the upper and the edge of the outer sole, thereby preventing mud and filth from lodging between them, but I can also diminish the width of the outer sole and give it a slight bevel or flare from the outside upward. This form, in conjunction with the outwardly-projecting or overhanging border of the inner sole and upper, will naturally operate to divert splashes outward away from the foot.

It will be seen that by my invention I unite the outer sole and inner sole without using either welt or filling, which is an advantage that will be appreciated by those skilled in the art.

laps the heel of the last without stretching,sub-

stantially as set forth.

2. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, an outer sole having a channel or crease formed in its edge to receive the seam uniting the insole, outer sole, and upper, substantially as described.

8. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, the combination,with an upper and an insole, of an outer sole having a channel formedin its edge, and a line of stitching laid in said channel and passing through the grained surface of the outer sole through the upper and through the insole, substantially as described.

4. The combination, with a boot or shoe, of a heel having a forwardly-projecting tongue which underlies part of the arch of the instep, said heel having the highest portion of its tread at the forward part thereof, substantially as described.

5. The combination,with a boot or shoe, of a heel havinga tongue orprojection which partly underlies the arch of the instep, said heel having a tread which is convex from frontto rear, the forward portion being the higher, substantially as described.

6. A shoe having the upper and sole united by stitching which enters the edge of the sole and passes obliquely inward through the upper, which lies upon the sole, and through the edge of the insole,which overlies the edges of the upper, the grained surface of the sole being laid next the foot, substantially as described.

7. A shoe having the sole, insole, and upper united by stitching passing obliquely from the edge of the sole through the superposed upper and provided with a heel having a tongue projecting forward under the instep portion, said heel being higher at the forward than at the rear portion, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

JOHN CONDELL.

Witnesses:

JAMES L. NORRIS, J A. RUTHERFORD.

IOD 

